Masonite Boards

**aussiedeza** · April 11th, 2008, 05:32 AM

This probably is a dumb question but I am having trouble acquiring correct Masonite boards to paint on which I think my main problem is that I am not entirely sure what to look for, what i keep finding at the hardware store is Masonite (well labeled as Masonite) but it has a coating on one side like lamanix(shiny white coating) i assume you ether don't paint on this side and gesso the other rough side??? or i have found the wrong type of Masonite but as this is the only type i can find my range is kinda limited, i was just going to try and gesso the rough brown side but thought i will ask first before i waste the gesso.

Thanks.
Dan

**CCThrom** · April 11th, 2008, 08:57 AM

Regular masonite should be brown on both sides, one side smooth & one side rough. I've never worked on the rough side of masonite... my gut reaction is it may not work well because the surface is *very* not sealed. I'm not sure that the surface would hold up. Still, you are going to seal it with Gesso so maybe it would work & give you an interesting texture as well...

Anyone else know for sure? If you do go ahead with this idea, let us know how it goes.

**dbclemons** · April 11th, 2008, 09:31 AM

There should be several threads here already on using Masonite and hardboards, but here a few quick notes. Masonite is a US company that no longer makes hardboard (I think all they make are doors now.) Several other wood mills make hardboards in different ways, most are low quality material for art use.

The back is the same as the front, except in your case where it's coated, and sometimes a thin coat of oil (tempering) is only baked into one side. I wouldn't recommend you paint on the coated side; although, you could scuff it up and possibly manage to get paint to stick. Working on the back would be better, if you can deal with the rough texture (this type is called single side smooth - there's also a double sided smooth.) A way around that is to fill it in more smoothly with acrylic paste or real gesso before priming it.

If you're having problems finding hardboard panels at lumber outlets, ask them for MDF (medium density fiberboard.) It's more or less the same material, except it's less dense, but can be thicker.

**aussiedeza** · April 11th, 2008, 10:53 AM

Thanks guyz i actually managed to find some Masonite tonight that didn't have the stupid white coating on it its brown and smooth one side and rough on the other if i gesso the smooth side wont the gesso peel off? do i rough it up with some sand paper first maybe?. Also couldn't buy it any smaller then 1220x920mm so i have to find a way to cut the stuff with out trashing it but I can probably sort that out easy enough, just really want to figure out how to prime it properly, it will be great to have paintings that don't take up a ton of room like stretched canvas's do And it's Cheap!!!.

Tanks for your help, i will also do a search maybe its already been talked about, but as my questions are about obvious things that most artist already know, i struggle to find the answers searching other posts.

**Elwell** · April 11th, 2008, 10:58 AM

The smooth side is still absorbent, but to be safe you can give it a light sanding, then wipe it down with some alcohol to clean off the dust and any oils.

**aussiedeza** · April 11th, 2008, 11:03 AM

Cheers Elwell, helpful as ever!!.

**Mirana** · April 11th, 2008, 04:01 PM

If you buy it at one of the big chain stores they will cut it down for you if you ask. If you go to an art store, you'll see hardboard pre-gessoed and cut down, but definately more expensive.

**Elwell** · April 11th, 2008, 04:07 PM

Cutting hardboard:
1/8" board can be cut with a matte knife or box cutter, cutting on both sides and then carefully snapping the board, then cleaning up the edge with a knife and a sanding block. For thicker boards you'll really want access to a table saw.

**Chris Bennett** · April 11th, 2008, 04:36 PM

Also, try and get the stuff that is not fire proofed - you will know this because it has a more shiny surface than the non-fire proofed. The reason you should avoid this is because when it is gessoed the fire-proofed masonite undergoes a sort of random particle swelling on its surface due to absorbing water and exhibits lots of little unattractive bumps. The regular stuff does not do this.